Let’s Talk Overcoats: Single- or Double-Breasted

  1. Timeless and relatively unchanging – aside from the narrow peak lapel, which became popular in the 2000s.
  2. Wear this style (especially in versatile navy and charcoal hues) for any formal or business-casual event.
  3. Without the excess fabric of the DB, the SB coat looks sharp even when unbuttoned.
  4. The single line of buttons elongates the torso, giving a taller, slimmer appearance.
  5. As the all-occasion coat, a tie is not always necessary. With the open V at the neckline, it works well with a scarf.
  6. WWBW (What Would Bond Wear): The SB style was Connery’s first dinner jacket in Dr. No.



  1. Traditionally the more conservative choice, the double-breasted style was first worn by European naval officers and royal Princes.
  2. Ideally a coat for the workplace, the DB cut gives an authoritative and professional feel.
  3. Always wear this style buttoned to avoid looking disheveled (unless you’re this guy).
  4. For slim gents, this style broadens the shoulders. On the portly side? Buy a size up for extra lengthening in the midsection.
  5. As the more formal coat of the two, don it with neckwear – be it a tie, bow tie, or ascot.
  6. WWBW (What Would Bond Wear): Moore made the DB famous in The Man with the Golden Gun.


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By Julia Ivins, Staff Writer

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November 13, 2012